Notes on Surabaya – In the midst of an old town renaissance

The Old City (Kota Lama), Surabaya Chinatown, and Jalan Tunjungan (one of the coolest streets in Indonesia).

Surabaya is a port city in the northeastern corner of Java island. The city is the capital of East Java province and the second-largest city in Indonesia.

I visited Surabaya in May 2024 as part of my rail trip across Java. This was my second trip to Surabaya, and I happened to be there while the city was undergoing a renovation of its old city streets. This old town renaissance might finally put Surabaya of the map of great city getaways in Southeast Asia.

On this trip I visited the Old City (Kota Lama), Surabaya Chinatown, and Jalan Tunjungan (one of the coolest streets in Indonesia).

Kota Lama (Old City)

Kota Lama (Old City) is the old town area of Surabaya. It’s also shown on maps as Kota Tua (Old Town).

The Kota of Surabaya has some similarities of Kota in Jakarta. Both areas have a collection of historical colonial-era buildings that are in varying states of decrepitude. Both Jakarta and Surabaya have finally realised the worth of these historic areas, and both cities have been restoring some of the buildings and fixing the streets.

The old city area was undergoing a big revitalization when I was there. The streets were being dug up and new sidewalks were being built. It was unfortunate timing, but I was glad to see that this area was finally being renovated.

[Streets under renovation at Gedung Cerutu (the cigar building).]

Rajawali is one of the main streets of the old city, and it includes the Gedung Internatio building.

[International Credit and Trade Association “Rotterdam” – Gedung Internatio.]

Next to the Kali Mas River on Jl. Jembatan Merah is a row of florist shops that are under a stylish covered concrete shelter.

On this street is the Twin Lion Statue Building (Tweeling Leeuw Standbeeld Gebouw), which is one of the most distinctive buildings in the old town. After I visited this building, I saw a link posted by Stuart from Travelfish about the Lion Building. There is not much information about the old town, so a Surabaya walking tour would help bring this area to life.

I probably wouldn’t stay in the old city as there still aren’t convenient amenities, especially at night. The Arcadia Hotel is on Rajawali and is the best located hotel in the Old City.

[Horison Arcadia Heritage Rajawali Surabaya.]

Surabaya Chinatown

Chinatown is part of the old town area, though it is demarcated as Chinatown on Google Maps. The Roode Brug (Red Bridge) marks the entrance to the Chinatown area.

Kembang Jepun is the main street of Surabaya Chinatown, and there is a Chinatown archway at each end.

As with the rest of the old town area, Chinatown was undergoing a major street renovation while I was there.

I think the Chinatown will become a groovy area once the streets are fixed up and some of the old buildings are restored.

Jalan Karet under renovation.

The side streets of the Chinatown area are an interesting place for urban exploration.

There are some smaller temples hidden away in these side streets.

In the Chinatown area is the Kokoon Hotel, which is a modern 3-star hotel that looks like it’s betting on the area becoming a hipster area.

I would like to revisit Surabaya Chinatown when the construction equipment is gone from the streets. Maybe one day the Chinatown will be as famous as the Chinatown’s of Singapore and Bangkok.

Tunjungan Street

The coolest street in Surabaya is Jalan Tunjungan and the surrounding area.

There are some historic buildings along this street, but the most pleasing aspect is the wide sidewalks.

Building pleasant cities is not rocket science. Build some tree-lined streets with wide footpaths and watch the area flourish.

I ended up staying near the main train station (Surabaya Gubeng), mainly because I was researching trains and getting photos. If I was to pick an area to stay in Surabaya I would stay near Tunjungan Street for my next visit. And if I wanted to stay in style, I would stay at the Hotel Majapahit. This hotel was built in 1910 by Lucas Martin Sarkies, the son of one of the fabled Sarkies brothers who founded a chain of luxury hotels throughout Southeast Asia.

[Hotel Majapahit Surabaya.]

Another notable hotel on Jl. Tunjungan is the Varna Hotel.

[Varna Culture Hotel Tunjungan Surabaya.]

Train travel

Like Jakarta, there is a Kota Station in Surabaya. And like Jakarta, Kota isn’t the main station. “City station” sounds like it would be the central station, but the main station is Surabaya Gubeng.

There is a historic station that looked like it would have been the central station of Surabaya, but the current building is a grim concrete block. I hope that the continual improvements of the Kota area leads to the restoration of the old Kota Station.

[Old Kota Station.]

Surabaya is a useful hub for train travel around East Java. I got the train from Surabaya to Ketapang, where I then got the ferry to Bali. I have already been to Mt Bromo, so you should visit if you haven’t already been.

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